Excerpts from an article by Kathy Brown-The Teacher’s Pet www.the-teachers-pet.com/moirewoolthread.html
Working with Rustic Moire Wool Thread!
The threads are 100% wool. By that nature, they are spun fibers, and will break if you yank on them, as will any spun fiber.
Tips: 1) a large eye chenille needle is a must when working with these threads. All large eye needs are NOT created equal. I prefer to use the Richard Hemming brand because the eye has more of a rounded shape inside the eye vs a sharp oval shape inside the eye (which can shred the threads) I use a 24 with the Richard Hemming and sometimes a 22 (which is larger with some of the colors. You will find that the threads are NOT all the same thickness (heathered ones being thicker than solid colors)-which is why I change out my needle size.
By the nature of the spun fiber of Rustic Moire threads, you cannot use a long length to stitch because they “stress” as they are pulled through the wool again and again. 18” length is a good max length. Pulling through fusible or glue also stresses the thread further. Your thread will not stretch as much when going through looser weaves. These threads are not smooth like perle cotton or cotton floss. They have little slubs in them, and are “hairier” than “wool blend”. Stitching with wool thread on wool has a bit of a grabbing effect. It’s different than what you may be used to if you use stranded floss or perle cotton.
Rustic Moire threads by being more coarse and rustic, tend to sit on top of the wool vs blending or melting into the wool most of the time.
Use for punchneedle. The trick with these threads is to not punch directly from the spool. Because the wool fibers grab on to each other, they do not pull from the spool smoothly. They create a drag. So simply cut a length of thread, thread your needle and let the remainder of the thread coming from the needle hang loose and punch away.